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Landscape Resource Center
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Mowing
Mow a newly installed sod lawn approximately 10 days from the time of installation. Do not use a riding mower. Roots should be established at least ¼" in length before the first cutting. If you start to bring the sod off the ground from the suction of your mower, you have tried too soon. Stop and wait a few more days. Mow newly seeded lawns 30 days after planting or when the grass reaches 3" tall. Mow new lawns approximately 2" from the ground and always remove clippings. After initial mowing, subsequent mowing should be done before grass height is more than 3". As a rule, the ideal cutting height for most grass blends is 1½" to 2". Never cut more than 1/3 of the total height at any one time. Removal of all clippings is recommended. Mowing, fertilizing, and watering influence a lawn's water consumption growth rate, leaf surface area, and depth of rooting directly correlate to these factors. A lawn with a higher mowing height results in increased leaf surface, deeper root systems, and generally higher water requirements. The deeper root system will help the lawn endure an occasional drought. Regular low mowing height produces a dense canopy with less water use, but a shallower root system that is more easily injured during drought.
Note: It is highly recommended to have your mower blade sharpened regularly. A sharp mower blade can improve lawn appearance dramatically.
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Edging
Lawn edging with a power edger or other edging
instrument after lawn mowing will aid in aesthetic value of
your lawn.
Note: As
with all power equipment proper safety considerations must
be followed.
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Lawn
Fertilization
Lawn fertilizer should be applied 30 days after installation
and again at 60 days to provide a high quality turf fertilizer
blanced with a minimum of 40 percent water-soluble nitrogen,
is a good mixture for these initial applications. The use
of fertilizers that include a slow-release nitrogen will help
a lawn maintain a more uniform growth and color over a longer
period of time. It is especially important to include a slow-release
nitrogen on lawns with sandy soil or lawns on slopes. Generally,
a mixture of the two types of products may yield the best
results. Check the label to see what form(s) of nitrogen is
included. After initial establishment, lawns should be fertilized
at approximately 60-day intervals.
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Lawn Weeds
Lawn weeds can be controlled by hand-pulling granular, or liquid herbicides. Follow the herbicide label directions carefully. For newly seeded lawns do not apply herbicides for 60 days after installation. After two months, weeds may be spot-sprayed with a herbicide.
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Lawn
Watering
Begin a lawn-watering program in early April
or May to maintain adequate moisture in turf. Early morning
watering reduces moisture related disease (red thread, rust)
problems.
New Lawns - Sod
New lawns require consistent moist soil until well rooted.
Lift the corner of a piece of newly installed sod after watering
to check that water has penetrated to the soil. Be careful
to apply water to the edges and corners of the lawn; these
areas will dry more quickly.
New Lawns - Hydroseed
Ample watering is essential for good germination. A newly
seeded area must be kept moist at all times for the first
two weeks after planting. Under most conditions this will
require watering 2 or 3 times per day. After two weeks, a
deeper, but less frequent watering is needed. Water 3 times
per week for approximately 15 minutes per area until your
first mowing.
Established Lawns
Once a lawn is established it will require about one inch
of water per week between May and September. During the hottest
weeks of summer the lawn may require 1½"-2" of water per week.
Encourage deeper root growth by watering less often, but deeply.
A lawn that sheds water quickly will need to be watered in
several shorter cycles. Lawn areas are commonly overwatered
and improving water distribution and application timing can
usually save significant amounts of water. The best time to
water is early morning or late evening to reduce vaporization
and evaporation. As a rule of thumb, watering during periods
when "dew" would be expected to appear naturally will minimize
fungal infections caused by water standing on the leaf surface
for long periods of time. If you use an automatic irrigation
system be sure to adjust the timer as the weather changes
through the season.
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Aeration/Dethatching/Overseeding
An annual core aeration performed by a power aerator one-time per year will help keep turf healthier by reducing compaction and promoting deep root growth. An ideal time for aeration is between March and May. It is important to reduce excessive thatch (the organic matter that accumulates on the soil surface below the grass blade). Thatch buildup of ½" or less is helpful since it reduces evaporation and helps to protect the lawn from wear. In excess, however, thatch prevents water from reaching the soil. Also, thatch itself can become saturated, interfering with drainage. The removal of thatch encourages healthy turf since water, fertilizer, and air are allowed to reach the lawn root system. Lawn dethatching is recommended when thatch accumulates to ½" or more. The time for dethatching is between March and May.
It is beneficial to overseed after a core aeration or thatching process to add lawn thickness. A quality seed mix containing perennial rye grass will provide thickness. Lawn seed should be lightly raked into the turf at a rate of 4-6 pounds per 1000 square feet of grass. A light application of peat moss will protect seed and aid in germination.
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Cranefly Control
Cranefly
larvae are the Pacific Northwest's worst turf insect problem. Untreated Cranefly can cause damage to a lawn within a short time period. When an area is heavily infested and grass dies, a brownish paste appears over the soil where the grass is missing. Brownish gray grubs, about an inch long, may be found just below the soil surface. An application of a registered turf insecticide during unseasonably warm periods between December and March will help control lawn damage.
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Leaf Removal
Leaf drop in the fall/winter period is quite heavy in the wooded areas of Washington. Excessive leaf accumulation on lawns may cause lawn stress and thinning due to lack of sunlight, the spreading of disease, and excessive water accumulation. It is recommended to rake leaves on a 5-7 day interval during heavy leaf drop months.
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Tree/Shrub Fertilization
All ornamental trees, shrubs and groundcovers should receive a March or April application of spring fertilizer in either liquid or granular form. This application will promote growing processes, aid in color and help the plant recover from winter stress. A second application of fertilizer may prove beneficial during the months of May or June, particularly for flowering hardwood plant materials.
Note: The above reference does not include annual seasonal plantings or vegetables.
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Planter Bed Weed Control
There are generally two
kinds of weeds that occur in planter beds. Those that germinate from
airborne seeds that blow in and those that arise from stolons found
in the sub-soil. Those arising from stolons are most frequently
coarse, persistent grasses commonly referred to as "runner grasses"
because of their tendency to send out underground runners that flush
with growth every few inches. Extracting these grasses is difficult,
as they tend to break off underground leaving the viable stolon
intact. Since herbicides like "Round Up" are drawn into the plant
system and eventually destroy the entire weed, in most weed types,
this chemical control is most effective in eradicating
stolons.
The airborne seeds that blow in and infect mulch areas may be controlled in a number of ways. These seeds may be prevented from germinating with use of a pre-emergent herbicide. If a pre-emergent is not used, the weeds may be pulled out or sprayed with Roundup as they appear. It is recommended to eliminate bed weeds on a regular basis to prevent a strenuous clean-up project.
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Pruning
Pruning ornamentals, trees, shrubs, and groundcovers can be accomplished during the following key pruning periods:
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| PLANT TYPE |
KEY PRUNING PERIOD |
| Deciduous Trees/Shrubs |
Prior to initiation of growing season (January/February/March) |
| Flowering Trees/Shrubs* |
Prune to shape after completion of flowering process |
| Hedge Type Plants and Broad Leaf Evergreens |
Typically sheared in early spring, summer and if required early fall |
* After flowering, Rhododendron's should be "dead-headed" by snapping off the bud from which the flower came. | |
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It is recommended to consult a horticulture professional if major pruning is required.
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Insect/Disease
Control on Trees and Shrubs
Insect/disease control on ornamentals is important during
early spring through early fall. It is important to consult
with a professional horticulturist prior to incorporating
control measures.
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Remulching
Bark or other suitable mulches (Steer-co, Gro-co) are effective in weed reduction and water conservation. It is recommended to maintain mulch to a depth of 2" in all permanent planting areas. Occasionally native areas should receive mulch in an effort to make the transition from landscaped areas to native areas less abrupt. In these areas a 1" layer is standard. It is important to remember to keep bark mulch thickness very minimal in and around the trunk and base of trees/shrubs.
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Irrigation Systems: Care & Maintenance
Irrigation
systems are typically equipped with an isolation valve, double check valve
(backflow prevention device) and a quick coupler valve (for compressed air
winterization (blow-out). These
components are usually located in a large green valve box close to your water
meter. Electric control valves located
in smaller green valve boxes throughout your yard control or activate different
zones or areas of sprinkler heads. These areas correspond to the different
stations on your automatic irrigation controller. Your mainline runs from the double check
valve to each control valve, and is pressurized during the watering season when
the isolation valve and double check valve are turned on or “open.”
For spring
activation of your system, make sure the four small testcock valves on your backflow prevention device are
closed completely before opening the main isolation valve. Slowly open this valve until the mainline is
filled. Run each zone for five minutes
to fill the lines with water, making sure your sprinklers are properly adjusted
and clean. Confirm that your controller
is programmed properly, and that it is in the “on” position if you wish to begin
irrigating automatically.
In running
your system throughout the year, make sure you have programmed the proper
duration and frequency of your watering cycles (as necessary for your soil type,
slopes, plantings, and exposure to sun and shade). Watering needs in your landscape will change
as weather patterns change during the season, and from year to year as your
plantings mature or are modified.
In the
fall, turn off the main isolation valve and slowly open the four testcocks on your backflow prevention device, to drain
residual water from the mainline. The Highridge Corporation highly recommends
having your irrigation system professionally winterized at the end of each
growing season (using compressed air), as it is the most reliable way to reduce
winter freeze damage.
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Water Features: Care & Maintenance
Some ponds
are installed using a rubber liner to provide a waterproof membrane beneath or
behind rocks and cobble. Use caution in
moving stones, walking on the liner or adding plants, as garden tools and
abrasion from hard surfaces can puncture or damage the liner. Even pets left unattended can cause liner
damage.
Your pond
may include an automatic fill float and overflow pipe. The automatic fill float will maintain your
water level at a constant pre-determined depth in your lower pond. The overflow
pipe will allow excess water to escape after a heavy rain or when you are
cleaning your system.
When you
have aquatic plant material or fish in your pond you will need to exercise
caution when applying fertilizers, chemicals, or any organic materials near the
water, as this can adversely affect the pH and nitrate levels in the water. You
will want to purchase a water test kit so you can monitor the pH level of the
water on a monthly basis. Your pH should range from 6.5 to 7.5. You can lower
the pH with products available at your local hardware or garden center. The
nitrate level can be maintained through the use of beneficial bacteria products.
You may
want to purchase a long-handled pool skimmer for the removal of leaves, needles,
etc. from your pond. If your pond
includes a filtration system, the filter mats should be changed or cleaned
regularly in accordance with the manufacturer's
recommendations.
It is
best that your water feature run continuously as start-ups cause the greatest
wear on the pump. Leaving your pump off
for prolonged periods can also cause water quality problems, and can cause
oxygen levels to drop (which may be harmful to your fish).
With
proper care and maintenance, you can be assured of many years of trouble free
enjoyment of your water feature.
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